In Urdu, a shoe with a closed upper attached to the sole is called “Jutti”. Punjabi Jutti, also known as Jooti, Khussa and Mojari is a handcrafted footwear made of leather which is beaded and embroidered with silk threads and sequins. It can be worn from day to day life, weddings, religious occasions to parties and festivals.
History of Punjabi Jutti : Since the 16th century, Punjabi Jutti has played a great role in the royalty of rich people, particularly the Kings and the Queens of Mughals, Rajasthan & Punjab. These were the elaborated versions which were heavily embroidered with gold or silver threads and beaded with pearls and gemstones and were worn with royal outfits.
Evolution of Punjabi Jutti : Over time, the pearls, gold and silver threads were replaced with beads, ghungroos, silk threads and other artificial decorative material to make its approach for the common man. The Modern day Jutti adds both comfort and style to it. This single type of shoes can blend seamlessly with a variety of outfits such as tees and jeans, dhoti pants, palazzos, and even with a wedding outfit. It is meant to attract attention in any kind of crowd.
Punjabi Jutti, as a part of Punjabi folk culture
Punjabi Jutti plays a vital role in the punjabi folk culture. It is the pride and identity of Punjabis as it represents a part of appearance of the Gabroos (Punjabi young men) and Mutiyaars (Punjabi young girls), where the Khussa has a popularity among gabroos as it has an upturned curl representing the Kundi Mooch (curled moustache) of a punjabi gabroo. While Kasoori jutti having delicate embroidery which was directly imported from kasur in the past times (now made in punjab too) has gained a popularity among mutiyaars, as it is said that only a true punjabi mutiyaar can walk with style in punjabi jutti.
Types of Punjabi Jutti : Even among the basic juttis, punjabi jutti comes with many variations giving a different style to it. Some of them are :
- Salem shahi Jutti : This type of jutti is characterized with a pointed, and sometimes curled tip with a spade shaped sole. This style is named after the Famous Mughal prince Saleem (Jahangir).
- Tilla Jutti : This type of jutti comes with a special type of golden thread work called Zari work. This work can also be found on Lakhi, Milan and Khosa Juttis, which come under the categories of Tilla jutti varying with structural designs.
- Khussa Jutti : This type of jutti is meant for men having a curled tip on front which represents manhood by having a resemblance with kundi mooch of a gabroo.
- Lucky Jutti : Lucky Jutti is called so, as in punjabi the word “Luck” means waist and this type of jutti has a narrow midsection like a waist of a girl.
- Kasuri Jutti : Kasuri juttis features a special toe indent design and was directly imported from Kasur district of Pakistan in the past times, but now made in Punjab too.
- Jalsa Jutti : It is a type of simple but attractive looking jutti for men that can be worn casually, in weddings, religious occasions and even in Parties and functions.
Along with these basic styles that are being adored from so many years, some modern versions of juttis also came into the picture which adds a modern or western style touch to the traditional or ethnical style and theses are Ghungroo style jutti, Mirror work jutti, printed jutti, pom pom style jutti, denim style jutti, contemporary style jutti and many more.